The Bosque is a wildlife refuge sitting along the Rio. Paul and I went there years ago in winter, staying at a sweet little B&B (Casa Blanca) in San Antonio. After driving and walking the refuge, we stood along the road watching wave after wave of Canadian geese and sandhill cranes arrive for the night after clearing area fields of leftover grains.
They clustered in groups of maybe a few hundred. Suddenly, on a signal known only to birds, all the groups rose as one, circled, and settled in new spots. It was magical.
On this day, there were no cranes or geese. They're smart and have gone north, the cranes perhaps as far away as Russia. It was hovering around 100 again, so again, I didn't stay out long. I drove, walked some. Enjoyed being the only one foolish enough to visit the Bosque on such a hot day.
The highlight was seeing three deer. Young, I think. Their antlers were about 12" tall and still fuzzy. There were also pheasant and some long-necked black birds sitting on a dead tree in the water. I have no idea what they were.
Then south, still on Highway 1, the lone vehicle for over twenty miles. I had to reenter the highway for the last stretch to Truth or Consequences.
T or C. One of my favorite spots. I rediscovered it about three years ago and found what is my favorite little motel in the US (my favorite so far - I'm still looking). It's called Riverbend. T or C is an area of hot springs, and Riverbend is along the Rio Bravo in the hot water district. It has six tubs, water moving from one into the next, and then into the river.
When I first went there, it was funky, a kind of 60s leftover. The rooms were a bit worn, but very comfortable. It still had a women's dorm with three sets of bunk beds. Beds in the dorm were $10 a night. I stayed there once with Minnow, the resident cat. I think I've stayed at Riverbend about a dozen times in the last three years.
But they decided to upgrade. All rooms have been remodeled, and the wonderful dorm has been closed. The room I first stayed in for $60 is now $90. The fanciful little three bedroom place with a tiny kitchen used to be $90. Now it's $160. I have been priced out of Riverbend.
But I stayed the night. $70. My most expensive stay of the whole trip. The room has been nicely redone, but in the future I'll have to stay up the road at the Charles where one can get two beds and a kitchenette for under $50. Walk a few blocks to Riverbend for the view and a soak.
It rained again Thursday night. Not bucketloads, but a real rain. Sitting in the hot water in the cool rain was delicious.
Two soaks that night and two the next morning. A quick visit to the Black Cat Bookstore, and I was on the road. Through Hatch. Past the Valley Cafe (aka the Dead Kennedy Restaurant). The Dead Kennedy Restaurant has the absolute best huevos rancheros to be found in the 50 states. You have to go deep into Mexico to find better.
Back roads from Hatch to Deming, then I-10 nearly to the Arizona border. South on historical Highway 80. 80 runs coast to coast, from San Diego to Van Horn Texas where it actually splits. You can take the northern route through Dallas and end up in Savannah, Georgia, or the southern route through Houston and New Orleans and end up in Jacksonville, Florida. Maybe one day I'll do that whole route.
Just like Route 66, old Highway 80 has been gobbled up in most places by interstate, but the last 130 miles or so of my trip were on blue highway 80.
Just south of the interstate I saw a Border Patrol vehicle. Amazing. I'd almost forgotten about them on this journey. But here, at least 70 miles north of the border, I saw the first, sitting in the middle of the road, the driver chatting with people on the side of the road. Soon came another vehicle.
Before I got anywhere near the border, I'd seen at least a dozen. Why, I wondered, don't the Border Patrol actually patrol the border? I know some do, but I saw more of them 50+ miles away from the border than I have seen right here on the border since yesterday.
Nearing Rodeo on Highway 80, there were still camps of temporary housing and firefighters. The Horseshoe Fire has been burning for a month and one day now, at a cost of 9.5 million dollars so far. It is now contained, with about 400 acres currently burning. There are still over 100 men and women, 3 helicopters, and several other pieces of firefighting equipment tied up there. Sadly, Thursday night's rain missed the fire. More sadly, area lightning has started two new fires.
I left with the fire, returned with the fire. I left just after a full moon, returning in time for the next. This morning, my first morning home I rose early to sit on the flagstone porch and watch the lunar eclipse. When I left it was late spring. Now, it is full summer. Crisp mornings are gone, replaced by an almost sultry quiet heat. Monsoons are near.
Welcome home my friend! Came back home to husband, domestic animals and just so you don't forget me, a package!
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